A Geo-Genealogy of Irish Surnames

I haven't been very good about posting lately - too busy working in the garden this summer! The potato harvest was my best yet, and some of my potatoes even went to the State Fair this year :-) I will be posting more regularly with notes from our April/May 2013 trip to Ireland, so please do check back occasionally or sign up for email updates. In the meantime, I wanted to share this fun website that allows you to search Ireland by county or by surname for your ancestors. I found some surprises! I'm mailing in my AncestryDNA kit today, too, so we'll see what surprises those results bring! http://storymaps.esri.com/stories/ireland/

Doonbeg trounces Doolin!

This photo of White Strand B & B is courtesy of TripAdvisor New Plan - Again!! Found an even better B&B about 30 minutes south of Doolin in a little town called Doonbeg. The White Strand B&B is rater by several travelers on Trip Advisor to have the best beds! Teresa is only charging us 30 Euro per person per night, 10 Euro/night less than the Half Door B&B in Doolin, which has less glowing reviews. The nicest feature of the Half Door (other than the cool front door) is that it's directly across from a great pub, so getting home after dinner and a few pints would be safe and easy. But the White Strand is directly across from a beach :-) and only a few kilometers from pubs and restaurants. It's in such a serene setting, and we got the large bedroom upstairs with the veranda! Not too much competition for rooms in west Clare in late April, apparently :-) I love how the let-down of one place (Hillview) has become such an opportunity for us.

Time For a New Plan!

All attempts to confirm our stay in the countryside in Co. Clare have failed. The woman at Hillview B&B apparently doesn't want our business. Unfortunate in a way for us, because it's the only accommodation anywhere near where my Morey, Torpey and Powell ancestors lived. OK, then, time for a new plan! We'll be staying in the fishing village of Doolin, several meters from a famous pub and with views of the Atlantic! We'll be closer to the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren and can enjoy a day trip over to east Clare to touch the soil once worked by my ancestors. No worries - we like the new plan even better! Rule #1 in travel: must be flexible.
This photo of Half Door B&B is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Atlantic Villa, Valentia Island, Co. Kerry

This photo of Atlantic Villa is courtesy of TripAdvisor
This photo of Atlantic Villa is courtesy of TripAdvisor I can't WAIT to be here!!! We leave in 25 days!!!

Rumex acetosa - Say what?

Sorrel. Have you ever heard of it? Eaten it? If not, you've got to learn more about it, try growing it, and experiment with it in the kitchen! It's a fabulous addition to any garden. In the US, most "foodies" have heard of French sorrel, but there is another beautiful variety called bloody sorrel or blood-veined sorrel. The veins of these leaves of this variety are deep red, making the plant very visually interesting. The red color does not affect the flavor, however. Sorrel has a lemony/citrusy, tangy flavor that brightens salads and pairs well with arugula and spinach and with sweet vegetables like roasted beets and caramelized onions. Toss sorrel leaves into soups or add to scrambled eggs or omelettes. Sorrel can also be juiced along with your favorite fruits and veggies to make a healthy and nutritious juice, or toss some into your green smoothies along with a bit of fresh ginger for some real zing. There are many variations of sorrel soup, too, most involving cream and egg yolks as thickening agents, but lighter versions can be made as well. It's incredibly versatile and so darned easy to grow. It's perennial, so once planted, there's very little maintenance, and it reappears faithfully each spring, providing edible foliage from early spring right through early to mid winter. What does all this have to do with Ireland? Well, sorrel grows wild all over Ireland and is typically found in grasslands, woodlands, and even roadside ditches (or so I've read). In Ireland, it's known as sheep's sorrel, and it is distinctly different from another type of sorrel called wood sorrel, the plant that we recognize as the shamrock. Since we'll be in Ireland during the springtime, riding our bikes on roads that pass through grasslands and woodlands, I plan to do some sorrel-hunting. I'll post pictures if I find any! For additional information and recipes, you might like to visit these sites: http://www.ireland-guide.com/article/sorrel.10206.html http://wildandslow.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/WILD_SORREL_FINAL.pdf PS If any of you know why I can no longer get paragraphs and indenting to show up in my blog posts, I'd love to hear your thoughts. It's frustrating to see these giant uni-paragraphs on my blog.

The Chieftains Can Still Tear It Up

Fifty years and going strong! The Chieftains concert was last night, and what a night it was! My hands are still sore from clapping. Paddy Maloney can still bring his tin whistle to life, and he soothed his sensitive uilleann pipes (relative to the bagpipes) with a humidifier during the show to protect them from the dry Utah air. Adorable, bald-headed Matt Molloy, looking quite dapper in his winter white sport coat, was incredible on the flute. Where does that man find all that air to make all that beautiful music come out of those 66-year old lungs? I can't wait to order a pint at Matt Molloy's pub in Westport, Co. Mayo, in early May. What an interesting life he's led, and what tales have surely been told in that pub! Kevin Conneff performed a stunning a cappella ballad about an emigrant returning to Ireland to find things quite different from how he'd left them (sad, as usual). Kevin's performance on the bodhran (a traditional Celtic drum) was remarkable to watch. He's a whiz with the tipper (aka beater), the instrument used to rap on the drum. It's double-ended, held in the center, and flicked back and forth so quickly at times that it's a blur. He moved the tipper to the edge at times to create a different type of sound. There are lots of youtube videos showing how the bodhran is played, if you're interested. It's really cool. One of the guest fiddlers was Jon Pilatzke, a Canadian, and he was nothing short of AMAZING. Just when you thought he was perhaps the most talented one on stage, a surprise guest named Nathan was brought out on stage and began performing an Ottawa valley step dance - something you might expect to see if tap-dancer Gregory Hines were to put his unique twist on an Irish step dance: flamoyant, precise, athletic, and memorable. To the crowd's wild surprise, Jon put down his fiddle and joined Nathan in the dance. We didn't yet know that they were brothers, but their symmetry and timing were impeccable. Turns out that they're part of a team called "The Step Crew" (http://stepcrew.com) and are on tour with the Chieftains. The Step Crew also includes the beautiful Cara Butler, an extremely fit, red-headed female dancer who must be in her late 40s, having been with the Chieftains since 1992. Watching her dance last night, I assumed she was maybe 25. She was leaping and flying effortlessly through the air as though suspended by wire cables. Methinks I need to get myself to the gym! I would encourage anyone who's anywhere near a town on the Chieftains tour to get yourself a ticket to their show. The evening far surpassed our expectations with its surprises, variety, and toe-tapping Celtic rhythms. We even had a taste of the Rolling Stones at one point. Go, while they're still around. You won't regret it!

Lyrics to Molly Bán

http://youtu.be/xOpY0wQdJ5w "Molly Bán (Bawn)" Come all ye young fellas / That handle a gun / Beware of night rambling / By the setting of the sun / And beware of an accident / That happened of late / To young Molly Bán / And sad was her fate. / She was going to her uncles / When a shower came on / She went under a green bush / The shower to shun. / Her white apron wrapped around her / He took her for a swan / But a hush and a sigh / T’was his own Molly Bán. / He quickly ran to her / And found she was dead / And there on her bosom / Where he soaked, tears he shed. / He ran home to his father / With his gun in his hand / Saying "Father dear father / I have shot Molly Bán." / Her white apron wrapped around her / He took her for a swan / But a hush and a sigh / T’was his own Molly Bán. / He roamed near the place / Where his true love was slain / He wept bitter tears / But his cries were in vain / As he looked on the lake / A swan glided by / And the sun slowly sank / In the gray of sky. /

The Great Potato Plan for 2013

For the 2013 season, I've gone in with two friends to place a large seed potato order. We'll be growing the following varieties:

Purple Viking (purple skin, white flesh)

Sangre (red skin, white flesh)

Warba Pink Eye (golden skin with pink eyes, white flesh)

Chieftain (pinkish red skin, white flesh)

Purple Majesty (dark purple skin, dark purple flesh)

All Blue (deep blue skin, deep blue flesh)

Yukon Gem (light yellow skin with pink eyes, light yellow flesh)

Yellow Finn (deep yellow/tan skin, yellow flesh)

Russet Burbank (russet skin, white flesh)

and six types of fingerlings:

Purple Peruvian

French Fingerling

Red Thumb

La Ratte

Austrian Crescent

Russian Banana

 

With this many varieties and somewhat limited space for a potato crop, I won't have too many plants of any one variety, but it should make for some beautiful, colorful dishes of potato salad and roasted potatoes!

 

They're due to arrive at the end of March so that they'll have sprouted and be set for planting out on the new moon, which falls on April 10th this year.   I'm funny about planting according to the lunar calendar, in that I only do it for potatoes.  This year's crop will be especially meaningful for me, whether I get them in the ground on the full moon or not, because the spuds'll be growing in my garden while we're in Ireland, and that will bring me great pleasure.  I really mean that.  I'll actually think of my crop while we're over there, and somehow, I'm sure I'll feel more connected to my farmer ancestors for having worked my soil and planted my tubers as they did long ago, with hope and anticipation for a great harvest. 

 

Here's a shot of my raised pototo bed from May 22, 2012 (soil was 14" deep).  I post this picture with hope and anticipation that the frozen, snow-covered tundra that currently is my backyard will actually melt and be ready to garden again in another six weeks :-)

 

Movies and Videos - Awash in DVDs

Holy smokes.  I need a new DVD stand just to house my new collection of Irish videos.  Most of these will probably end up for sale on Amazon once I'm sure I've watched them enough times.  One video I *know* I won't be watching again is "The Field."  Although the acting was good and the scenery beautiful, the plot was downright depressing.  The Killinaskully comedy TV series is pretty hysterical, and the others have been helpful and informative.  Please feel free to post a comment if you have specific questions about any video in particular.  I'd be happy to give a more thorough review for you.

Discovering Ireland:  Video Visits Travel Collection

Rick Steves Ireland and Scotland (6 episodes, including Dublin, The Best of South Ireland, and The Best of West Ireland)

The Story of Ireland (BBC)

In Search of Ancient Ireland (PBS)

Celtic Voyages:  A Fascinating Journey Through Ireland (3 DVD set)

Killinaskully:  Season 1 TV Comedy Series

Man of Aran (1934 b/w drama)

Into the West (drama)

The Field (drama)

The Quiet Man (drama)

Ryan's Daughter (drama)

Out of Ireland:  The Story of Irish Emigration to America

Since We're On the Subject of Potatoes...

 

 

 



Potato culture just fascinates me.  Why do some nightshades, like eggplants and peppers, produce their fruits above ground while potatoes produce theirs in the form of tubers underground?  I did see some fruit-like growths on top of my potato plants one year, but it's the only year out of the over 15 years I've been cultivating potatoes that I'd ever seen those non-edible fruits form from the flowers.  Very odd. 

In any event, it thrills me to look at the lush growth above the soil and, once the plants have flowered, to imagine the tubers underneath the surface pushing the soil out of their way as they grow larger and larger.  This photo shows some of my "Warba-Pink Eye" potatoes that I harvested in September 2012 (hover over photo and click to see larger).  I had robbed every plant of some tubers before this point in the harvest, so the photo shows what was left of the plant's tubers once I'd already robbed several over the preceding weeks.  The summer of 2012 saw my most productive potato harvest ever - 44 pounds from my 9' x 4' plot in a raised bed.  Forty-four pounds of potatoes would have kept an Irish man fed for only 4 days during the 1800s in Ireland, when the average person consumed about 10 to 14 pounds of potatoes per day - and nothing else.  Of course, potatoes are only one source of many types of food for us, so we still have over 10 pounds of last summer's harvest left in storage.  They're starting to sprout, so I'm using them more frequently. 

This is a basket of Warba Pink Eye potatoes harvested in September 2012.  As of February 10, 2013, we still have some left, and they're still looking pretty good!


The varieties I grew this past summer were Warba-Pink Eyes, Chieftains, Yukon Gems and Purple Vikings, along with one experimental tuber - the bright red ones pictured below in the pan grew from an organic potato that I bought at Whole Foods and that had started to sprout on the kitchen counter.  I figured it couldn't hurt (too much) to plant it, and it turned out to be very productive! 

The tubers I actually purchased for planting were in excellent shape when they arrived from Irish Eyes Garden Seeds (www.irisheyesgardenseeds.com), and they produced a sizeable and healthy harvest.  This week, I'll be selecting next season's varieties, which will surely include a golden-fleshed type, a white-fleshed type, and varieties with different skin colors.  I try to select all-around potatoes that can be used for boiling, mashing or roasting, because I'm not very good at remembering which ones are best for which method of cooking.  My intentions are always to remember these details, but as the summer wears on, my memory wears out :-)

One recent experiment with my potato supply was an effort at cabbage and potato soup.  The only cabbage-like plant that I had in the garden in late November was a mature Portuguese kale, which is very much like a collard and which had formed a large head like a cabbage (they're all brassicas and are often interchangeable in recipes). 

 

 

 



Once the veggies were cooked and tender, I used my immersion blender to achieve a smooth texture and seasoned the soup with salt and pepper.  I was a little disappointed to find the taste quite bland and unappealing, though, so I ventured into my snow-covered backyard and harvested a nice bunch of French sorrel.  I quickly sauteed the sorrel in some butter and added that to the pot, using my immersion blender again to mix it in.  The sorrel made all the difference in terms of brightening up the flavor and adding that subtle lemony kick that sorrel is known for.  Here is the final result, topped with a dollop of creme fraiche:

 

Not a bad soup, given its humble beginnings as Portuguese kale and potatoes!

 



The Chieftains' 50th Anniversary Tour

The Chieftains, a traditional Irish band formed in 1962, is still celebrating their 50th anniversary, and they're on tour in the United States over the next three months.  In honor of my 50th birthday (!), they'll be making a tour stop in Salt Lake City in mid-February, and yes, we have tickets! 

Here's a link to the Chieftains' website with the tour dates:  http://www.thechieftains.com/main/  The show will be held at Kingsbury Hall, the grand performing arts center located on the University of Utah campus. 

In order to properly prepare for the big event, I'll be sure to have plenty of Guinness on hand, and I've ordered one of their CDs, "Wide World Over," described on Amazon as follows: 

"One of the elements that's made the Chieftains the stellar Celtic band in the world is their love of innovative collaborations with mainstream pop stars. The Wide World Over: A 40-Year Celebration gathers into a single collection some of the Irish ensemble's most memorable moments, including predictable alliances with artists such as Van Morrison, who sings "Shenandoah" to additional backing by the Irish Film Orchestra, and unlikely pairings like the Rolling Stones, who add a rock kick and the "Satisfaction" riff to "The Rocky Road to Dublin." Cross-cultural experts Linda Ronstadt and Los Lobos demonstrate their versatility on the Mexican ditties "Txalaparta" and "Guadalupe," on which pipes and pennywhistle don't seem a whisker out of place, while Ricky Skaggs points to the Irish and British roots of American country music on the rousing "Cotton-Eyed Joe." Art Garfunkel, Sting, Sinead O'Connor, Joni Mitchell, and Elvis Costello are also featured in classic performances with the 40-year-old Irish band, while a brand-new collaboration with Ziggy Marley yields a gorgeous Don Was-produced rendition of Bob Marley's "Redemption Song." The cliché that there's a bit of the Irish in all of us proves true in this wide-ranging, constantly rewarding, and frequently surprising collection. And the tracks on which the Chieftains go it alone are also a gas. --Bob Tarte" 

And, as usual, I provide you with the link to the CD on Amazon:  http://www.amazon.com/Wide-World-Over-Year-Celebration/dp/B00005YT8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1358008484&sr=1-1&keywords=chieftains+wide+world+over

Can't wait to pour myself a pint and pop in this CD.  Hearing a traditional Irish band collaborate with Ziggy Marley on "Redemption Song," one of my all-time favorite reggae songs, should be something indeed, a true cultural mind-twister.  It reminds me of an experience 25 years ago when I was in a bar in central Australia, and an Aboriginal woman picked up the mic and sang, "I'm Proud to be an Oakie from Muskogee."  She belted out the lyrics with joyful enthusiasm and not a small amount of inebriation, and 25 years haven't erased one bit of the vivid memory I have of her in that dark, smoky little bar on a corner in Alice Springs.  Trying to integrate something that seems so wildly discordant is an experience that should come more often than once every 25 years. 

Emancipate Yourselves From Mental Slavery...

OK, I can't wait for the Amazon delivery.  For the listening pleasure of all:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnJgIq48C9k

Thanks to Frank McCourt for these Dublin pub recommendations!

I can't wait to surprise my husband by bringing to him to several of the pubs featured in Frank McCourt's PBS special, "Historic Pubs of Dublin."  Here's a link to the trailer:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGnmYIePYeg

McCourt, author of Angela's Ashes, takes the viewer on a walking tour of Dublin, stopping in 13 of Dublin's oldest and most famous pubs, some of which he frequented when he was a grad student at Trinity College.  He also visits the Jameson Distillery and the Guinness Factory/Store, walks across the Ha'Penny Bridge and meanders through St. Stephen's Green.  The video packs a lot into its 55 minutes, moves at a good pace and keeps things entertaining with traditional Irish pub music. 

 from connect-123.com

The pubs I'm most excited to visit in our one evening in Dublin are the Brazen Head (the oldest pub in Dublin!), Kehoe's (pictured above- this place hasn't changed much since it opened in 1803, except that women are now allowed to order Guinness and they're not required to sit in a "snug" - more on that later), and The Stag's Head - complete with its mosaic sign built into the sidewalk out front.  An interior shot of The Stag's Head, borrowed from their website, is shown here.  Note the stag's head in the stained glass windows.  The stag features prominently in the decor, apparently!    Below is an exterior shot of the Brazen Head, which opened for business in 1198 AD.  The walls of the Brazen Head have overheard the conversations of Ireland's major literary figures and their most famous political revolutionaries who gathered here to plot insurrections against the British government.  We don't plan to do anything so dramatic.. just enjoy a good pint and feel the spirit of the place.

www.brazenhead.com photo

 

After we visit these three pubs, assuming time permits, and if we can keep drinking more Guinness, we'll check out some of the other pubs featured in the documentary.  They're all amazing, with too much history to wrap one's head around.

I really enjoyed this video.  If you're looking for some good armchair travel, pour yourself a pint and rent this video on Netflix!

Irish Seed Savers Association in Co. Clare

I was thrilled to discover that the Irish Seed Savers Association (http://www.irishseedsavers.ie/visit-us-in-scarriff.php) is located within minutes of my ancestors' town in County Clare.  What a great opportunity it will be to visit their extensive organic gardens and orchards, as well as their cob house, earth oven, polytunnel (hoophouse) and shop, where they sell organic and open-pollinated seed for rare and native varieties, along with garden accessories and books on seed saving and growing.  Pretty cool place for gardeners to shop for an Irish souvenir!  I would treasure being able to work in my own garden with a garden tool that came from a town in Ireland so close to where my ancestors lived.  I'll post pix of our visit, so stay tuned!

Here are some pictures of our hoophouse, which is providing us this winter with lettuces, kale, chard, Asian greens, and carrots and turnips.

In early November, before any snow fell, our older lab Drew watched me

cover our hoophouse frames with the greenhouse plastic. 

A few days later, it looked like this!

Currently, the cold frame is in another part of the garden, covered in snow! 
Inside are lettuces, claytonia (aka miner's lettuce), mache (aka corn salad), and beets.

Reading List

This is a list of books I've read (or am reading*) as part of the preparation for the trip.  Four of the books listed deal with the Great Famine, because I still can't wrap my mind around the fact that this was allowed to happen to the Irish people.  Maybe if I keep reading different accounts of what happened, it will at some point make some sense to me. 

Paddy's Lament, 1846-1847:  Prelude to Hatred

Black Potatoes:  The Story of the Great Irish Famine, 1845-1850

Vanishing Ireland: Further Chronicles of a Disappearing World

Angela's Ashes

When Ireland Fell Silent:  A Story of a Family's Struggle Against Famine and Eviction

* The Graves are Walking:  The Great Famine and the Saga of the Irish People

* In Search of Ancient Ireland:  The Origins of the Irish from Neolithic Times to the Coming of the English

* Rebels: The Irish Rising of 1916

* Star of the Sea

* People of the Wetlands: Bogs, Bodies and Lake-Dwellers (Ancient Peoples and Places)

* To Hell or Barbados:  The Ethnic Cleansing of Ireland

* Nan:  The Life of an Irish Travelling Woman (note: about the gypsy culture in Ireland)

Below are some pictures of a gypsy caravan similar to the one that Nan, the subject of the last book in the list, probably lives(d) in.  The one in the photos has been refurbished to accommodate tourists at the Phoenix organic farm in Castlemaine, Co. Kerry.  We'll be staying in this camper-style room (without facilities) for one night and try to learn more about the Irish travellers' way of life.  Of course, we'll be dining in high style on organic food picked that day on the farm and drinking organic wine - not your typical gypsy meal - but this night should provide us with some pretty special insight into one aspect of Irish culture not often understood by tourists. 

There's also a large pile of travel books next to the bed, some of which include:

Rick Steves Ireland

Around Ireland on a Bike

Cycle Touring in Ireland

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Ireland

Ireland for Food Lovers

A Foodie In Ireland

Delicious, healthy food isn't really what came to mind when I first thought of traveling to Ireland.  During my Irish-American childhood, I ate lots of meat and potatoes, and occasionally we mixed things up by having potatoes and meat.  Throughout most of the year, we ate canned vegetables with our meat and potatoes (or potatoes and meat), so I was always excited when summer arrived, because it meant that the farm down the road would be opening their fruit stand.  Luckily for me, my mom enjoyed shopping there and teaching me how to prepare fresh fruits and vegetables.  Overall, though, our diet was very basic, flavored only with salt and pepper (herbs? spices?  Jesus, Mary and Joseph, what are they?), and I didn't learn to really "cook" until my late 20s.  Cooking has become one of my true passions, and since I'm now also an avid grower of food, there's plenty of home-grown fresh, frozen, and canned produce to supply us year-round. 

So, the food in Ireland wasn't really a big draw.  Rather, it was something I knew we'd have to consume over there to survive for two weeks and that it might not be too bad as long we could find some good stew.  I wondered at one point how many variations of meat and potatoes we would try and whether or not we would find any (good) salad.  It's not like going to Italy, for heaven's sake, where the food - glorious Italian food - is one of the main attractions.

The first book I ordered to learn more about the type of food we might encounter was, "The Complete Irish Pub Cookbook."  The recipes reinforced the idea that we'd be eating the meals of my childhood, featuring none other than meat and potatoes:  colcannon (mashed potatoes with cooked greens throughout), beef stew, lamb stew, and that sort of fare.  Hearty and sustaining, and probably quite tasty, but not exactly heavy on fresh, leafy greens, curcurbits, or cruciferous vegetables.  That said, there were some recipes in the book that surprised me - Buttered Kale with Chives and Lemon, for instance.  Well, that sounds almost... Italian!  This is sounding promising, I thought.  So I explored further.

Then I was fortunate enough to have discovered Georgina Campbell's "Ireland for Food Lovers." It's a lovely book, and there is also an incredibly detailed, easy-to-use iPad app that I've downloaded for the trip.    Campbell provides county-by-county recommendations on artisanal food producers, places to shop or visit, places to eat & stay, farmers' markets, and food festivals.  The app includes links to any of these places that you desire to read more about, which is very handy. 

The most exciting part - for me - about the resources Campbell has put together is that they identify gems such as local jam makers and cheese producers, organic farm-to-table restaurants and places that serve and sell additive-free, organically-produced wine.  For example, here's an excerpt of a desription of what's grown specifically to be served at a restaurant on one of the Aran Islands:  "Potatoes, vegetables, fruit and herbs are home-grown on this restaurant site - an amazing range including spinach, braod beans, peas, scallions and onions, carrots, parsnips and radishes, fennel bulbs, rocket, lollo rosso, masses of herbs, rhubarb, pears and soft fruits like raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries and blackberries - and even the elderflower cordial is handmade in Cork by Marie-Therese's mother, Breda Leahy."  We're not talking basic meat and potatoes here, my friend.  This is a veritable symphony of produce, not just the same old chord!  Alas, this place isn't on our itinerary, but it's representative of the vibrant food scene that's taken hold in Ireland.

I wanted to share this, because I just wasn't aware until I found Georgina Campbell's book and iPad app that there would be so many amazing food opportunities in Ireland.  This is, in part, why my travel philosophy includes doing pre-trip research (but more on that later).  I've since found that there's even an Edible Ireland website (www.edible-ireland.com), chock-full of links to local food producers, shops, festivals, and markets, as well as restaurants that serve organic and locally-sourced fresh foods.  On the "About" page of the Edible Ireland website, the author writes, "As Colman Andrews says in The Country Cooking of Ireland, “Ireland — for its superlative raw materials, its immensely satisfying traditional home cooking, and its new wave of artisanal producers and imaginative but well-grounded chefs — [is] simply one of the most exciting food stories in the world today.”  Wow.

Here is a link to Campbell's website:  http://www.ireland-guide.com/shop/product.php?item_id=8901.  And to order the book on Amazon, go to this link: http://www.amazon.com/Ireland-Food-Lovers-Georgina-Campaperbackell/dp/190316429X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357332132&sr=8-1&keywords=ireland+for+food+lovers
I think you'll enjoy!!

Update:  I just learned about the most amazing restaurant that's right around the corner from our hotel in Dublin:  http://www.cornucopia.ie/  I saw it on www.happycow.net, which I've found to be a great resource for traveling within the US.  Didn't realize they included destinations across the pond.  So excited!

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The Plan

Our plan is to explore the west of Ireland during a 2-week period in the late spring, right after my 50th birthday.  We'll use our rental car to get from place to place and ride our rented bikes in and around each of our destinations to burn off all the Guinness we plan to consume.  We both have Irish ancestors, and I've been doing research on Ancestry.com and with some newly-discovered relatives to try to find out more about where our families are from and how they lived.  This is going to be a very special trip!

The itinerary:

Galway, Co. Galway, 2 nights
Maghera, Co. Clare, 2 nights
Waterville, Co. Kerry, 2 nights
Castlemaine, Co. Kerry, 1 night
Adare, Co. Limerick, 1 night
Westport, Co. Mayo, 3 nights
Inverin/Spiddal, 1 night
Dublin, 1 night

Galway:  I chose the Park House Hotel for our first two nights in Ireland because it's within walking distance of the train station (where we'll arrive from Dublin), it's located right on Eyre Square in the heart of old Galway, and the rooms are very quiet and comfortable (no room is adjacent to any other room)  - great for recovering from jetlag and preparing ourselves for all the fun we're about to have.

Maghera:  Why the heck are we staying somewhere no tourists ever go?  Well, partly because no tourists ever go there, and partly because this is the closest place to where some of my ancestors lived.  The Morey line (my father's mother's line) lived in Tyredagh Upper, Affick and Tulla, towns just east of Maghera in Co. Clare.  The darling farmhouse we're staying in, called Hillview Farmhouse B&B (www.hillviewbandb.com), is located such that we can leave there on our bikes and explore the whole area east to Tulla. 

Waterville:  Not much going on in Waterville, but it's on the coast of Co. Kerry with views of Skellig Michael, the island we'll be visiting, and is situated well for (hilly and windy) coastal bike rides.  No accommodation booked here yet, but we're considering a small place called the Clifford B&B located right on the main road.  It's very plain but offers bike storage facilities and has decent reviews for such a simple place.

  Co. Kerry

Castlemaine:  Again, this isn't a major destination, like Dingle would be.  We intend to ride around the Dingle Peninsula and to shop and eat in the town of Dingle, but there's a fabulous organic farm with restaurant and accommodation in Castlemaine called The Phoenix (http://www.thephoenixrestaurant.ie/).  It positions us closer to the next day's destination, too.  At the Phoenix, we've rented the gypsy caravan for one night (we'll be "glamping"), and we'll enjoy an organic dinner of locally-sourced ingredients right there on the farm.

  The Phoenix, Co. Kerry

Adare:  This village has been named one of Ireland's prettiest villages.  Rather than stay right in town, I thought it might be nice to try staying in a country estate.  The place I chose, Clonunion House, is a 200-year old farmhouse located just outside of Adare.  There are many large, fancy estates and castles all over Ireland where tourists like to stay, but given the hardships endured by my ancestors, I don't feel comfortable luxuriating in such places.  This particular farmhouse seems a bit less grandiose while still getting good reviews.  We should be able to ride our bikes from the property into town for dinner.  Check out other photos of Clonunion House here:  http://www.clonunionhouse.com/gallery.php

   Clonunion House, Adare

Westport:  After sleeping for one night in each of two different spots, it will be nice to settle in for three nights at our darling B&B just outside of Westport in Co. Mayo.  The Woodside Lodge B&B (www.woodsideireland.com) is quaint on the outside and updated inside in a modern, bright style, complemented with a scattering of antiques.  This B&B is right by the entrance to the Great Western Greenway, the longest off-road cycling trail in Ireland - 26 miles of traffic-free, paved, coastal riding splendor (52 mi. round trip).  The village of Westport is one of Ireland's "prettiest villages," full of great pubs and shopping, and it's close to Foxford, where my husband's mother's ancestors lived.  The cycling in Co. Mayo is some of the best in all of Ireland, so we've planned to ride here at the end of the trip, saving the best for last!

  Woodside Lodge B&B, Westport, Co. Mayo

 

 

Inverin/Spiddal:  We'll have to return our car and bikes in Galway on Wednesday, so on Tuesday,  we're leaving Westport and getting a bit closer to Galway.  The coastal town of Inverin is right next to the better-known craft village of Spiddal, and I've found us what I think will be a fabulous spot for our last night in the west.  The An Caladh Gearr thatched roof cottage, built in the late 1800s, is a traditional cottage that's been made into a B&B.  This is the type of cottage that our ancestors inhabited over a century ago, and I expect that we'll have a very special experience here.  Here is the link to learn more about this historic gem:  http://www.goireland.com/galway/an-caladh-gearr-thatched-cottage-accommodation-bed-and-breakfast-id9519.htm

 

  An Caladh Gearr, Inverin/Spiddal

 

 

Dublin:  I think it will be with heavy hearts that we head to Dublin by train for our last night in Ireland.  I've chosen the Brooks Hotel, a 4-star boutique hotel in the heart of Dublin (www.brookshotel.ie).  It's just a 2-minute walk to St. Stephen's Green, which has been compared to New York's Central Park in terms of green space in the heart of a major city.  We should have just about time for a walk through St. Stephen's Green, an exploration of the Temple Bar area, maybe a jaunt across the Ha' Penny Bridge which crosses the River Liffey, and a short pub crawl before we have to pack up our stuff for the flight home.  Trust me, the pub crawl is the most important element of the evening :-)